To fully understand the significance of natural hair in the United States we need to begin with the “roots” of where it all started, or lack thereof.
“Roots”
In the 1600s- 1700s, headshaving was one of the many cruel indignities that slaves suffered in the New World. This was meant to erase slaves’ identity and culture. To remove them from their culture as much as possible, as many African hairstyles were intricate, beautiful, and complex.
In 1786, the governor of New Orleans enacted the Tignon Law. It required that Black and Creole women cover their hair to indicate their class and to deter white men from courting Black women. Nevertheless, Black women found a loophole through this law by adorning their hair with ornate fabric and jewels. While there are no longer laws in place with these stipulations, head wraps are still a huge part of Black culture throughout the U.S. and the Caribbean.
“Wrap it Up”
In the decades following Emancipation ( 1860’s to 1900) , black people faced economic and social pressure to assimilate into white culture, via Eurocentric beauty standards. Meaning straighter hair and lighter skin. With the mass production of hair relaxers and hot combs, some black people began to alter their hair texture with chemicals. This trend continued for decades due to the perpetuated belief that coiled or kinky hair was unattractive. Conforming to white culture was seen by many as necessary for employment and to avoid abuse.
( Sidenote: Imagine… being punished for wearing your hair the way it GROWS from your head…. Did you imagine it yet? Okay, carry on” )
In the 1920s Josephine Baker, an American- Born french entertainer and renowned dancer, popularized the iconic 1920’s “flapper” look. Finger waves were also very popular in this era.
“Snatchin’ Wigs”
Black women have been laying edges and lace fronts since the 1950’s. They started wearing wigs to match fashion trends they could not reproduce with their own hair. Wigs are now widely worn from people of all cultures and ethnicities, but they resurfaced in the United States from the policing of Black women’s natural hair.
During the 1960s and 70s’,black people grew their afros out as a symbol of pride and rebellion, this era was prime time for the civil rights movement. Sales of straightening chemicals and hot combs drastically declined in the 60s. For many returning natural meant shedding ones appearance, and ideas of beauty accumulated through assimilation into white america. Cornrows were popularized by Cicely Tyson, American actress and former fashion model, in 1972 while promoting her movie “Sounder.”
( Sidenote number 2 : Kylie Jenner and the Kardashians didn’t invent cornrows and they were never called “boxer braids” contrary to popular belief.)
“Loc’d and Loaded”
The origins of dreadlocks cannot be clearly traced. But their is evidence of the style in ancient Egyptian, Viking, and Pacific Islander culture. In 1985, Whoopi Goldberg popularized dreadlocks grown for nonreligious reasons. And in the 90’s Janet Jackson brought box-braids to mainstream culture in the iconic movie “Poetic Justice.”
Present Day
“We don’t go natural, we return. “Natural” is where it began.”
This short outline was just a snapshot of the story behind Natural Hair in the U.S. So before you say, “It’s just hair,” please educate yourself on the history. It was never “just hair” from the beginning.
My story with my coils and kinks is probably similar to many of my natural sisters out there. I grew up on relaxers and flat irons. Frying my locs one by one, because that was what made me beautiful. Pretty soon I learned that that was more to the story than that, this same mindset was ingrained in Black culture as its own entity. I still remember the day I told myself. “No More,” and discovered the crown that lay beneath. And now here I am, about to reach my 3rd “Naturalhairaverssary” on November 20, 2019. And I wouldn’t have it any other way. I see so many black women finally embracing their natural kinks, coils, and curls for what they are. And embracing the hair that grows from their head.
College Curlys 